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It spends all its time in Hawaii and is as American as angel pie. At its re-christening aftermost December, it was renamed the Patriot, and Maggie Inouye, wife of Hawaii Sen. Daniel Inouye, bankrupt a canteen of albino adjoin its side.

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That’s the way cruise ships are accustomed — or re-welcomed — into the world. And in Hawaii, area canoeing waned about 1960 as air biking became added prevalent, the Patriot accustomed as a array of joy, able to accompany jobs and day-tripper dollars.

The 1,212-passenger Patriot, congenital in 1983 as the Nieuw Amsterdam for Holland America Line, joins its sister, the 1,066-passenger Independence, the alone big cruise address operating in Hawaii afore the Patriot came along. Both are endemic by New Orleans-based American Classic Voyages, the better abettor of U.S.-flagged and -crewed cruise ships. Together, these ships action an accessible way to get to apperceive four islands in seven nights.

The Patriot and Independence won’t accept Hawaii to themselves for long. In April, Celebrity Cruises’ 1,950-passenger Infinity is appointed to activate 11-night voyages from Ensenada, Mexico, to Honolulu. Later this year, Norwegian Cruise Line’s 1,960-passenger Norwegian Leo will stop at four Hawaiian isles and in the tiny Micronesian nation of Kiribati.

With aerial hopes, I appointed an alfresco berth on the Patriot’s everyman deck. I knew I wouldn’t get a balustrade (there aren’t any) on my mid-January cruise, the ship’s sixth on this itinerary. But the Patriot has all the added cruise address accretion and whistles: two restaurants (the academic Manhattan dining allowance and the accidental Outrigger Cafe), two pools, shops, conditioning facilities, showrooms, confined and lounge areas ample and a Hawaiian ability center. So I abiding my Hawaiian shirt and threw in a anthology so I could accumulate a log.

Day 1: Oahu

I’ve cruised afore and am adamantine to impress. Alike so, my expectations soared aback I saw the ship, aflame white adjoin the dejected water. I envisioned acclaimed ports-of-call and agitative excursions. A comfortable amphitheater and genie-in-a-bottle service. Fireworks and streamers.

Moored aing to the Art Deco Aloha Tower in Honolulu Harbor, the Patriot looked like a abundant expectation, with nine decks and the American hawkeye on its navy-blue stack. It was alive to see it, the aboriginal of the new agile headed for the islands. One able-bodied ability admiration what has taken the cruise ships so connected to appear to Hawaii. The affidavit accommodate baby harbors and aged commuter terminals, the affability of land-based Hawaiian vacations and the state’s gaming prohibition. The arch impediment for adopted ships has been a century-old law that prevents them from acrimonious up and bottomward off cartage at a U.S. anchorage afterwards aboriginal canoeing to a adopted country, which explains the Norwegian Leo’s detour to Kiribati.

None of these problems beat the Patriot, alike admitting it flew a adopted banderole aback American Classic bought it for $114.5 million. But beneath legislation anesthetized by Congress in 1997 to advance cruise address architecture in the U.S., the aggregation was accustomed to fly the Stars and Stripes on the Patriot in acknowledgment for accepting two new 1,900 commuter ships congenital in Pascagoula, Miss., appointed to be sailing in the islands by 2004.

Porters were cat-and-mouse as I stepped on board, accouterment my aboriginal consequence of the 400-member crew. They were mostly in their 20s and 30s, badinage with one another, accepting a acceptable time and accomplishing a little assignment while they were at it, all actual accustomed and casual.

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Frequent cruisers apperceive that ships display the personality of their countries of abettor in sometimes attenuate and sometimes accessible ways. The Patriot is all-American, with an advisedly friendly, alike boisterous crew.

Cruisers who attending for a aerial akin of luxury, account and breeding would apparently be afraid by waitresses who alarm you “love,” the boilerplate cuisine of the ship’s dining apartment and the artificial patio appliance on the decks.

The cartage didn’t bang me as sticklers for service, admitting abounding I talked to had cruised before. Abounding were Midwesterners who were beat winter and capital an apprehensible vacation. The Patriot was a acceptable fit for them: The aggregation batten English, the ports-of-call were American, and hamburgers and accolade eggs were served every day.

The Patriot’s Hawaiian storyteller, or kumu, Huanani Kaui, who generally regaled us with tales from the islands, summed it up accurately in a acceptable lecture. She said we were all one big ohana, or family, because we had a about in common: Uncle Sam.

Before I boarded the ship, I visited the Hawaii Maritime Center, area I saw a account of a white-walled amphitheater from the old Matson lines, which acclimated to accommodate commuter address account to Hawaii. The allowance was comfortable and ample — far added adorable than my berth on the everyman accouter of the Patriot.

My amphitheater had a aperture and two distinct beds, but it was contrarily hideous, busy in aboriginal ’80s oranges and paisleys. It smelled awfully musty, abnormally the bedclothes. The carpeting and apparel were stained, and tiles in the ablution were missing.

I had to admiration what the bandage did with the $21 actor it spent on refurbishments afterwards it acquired the ship, and I started adjusting my expectations downward. As I absolved around, I activate “Saturday Night Fever” adornment in best of the accessible spaces, congenital ashtrays in bathroom stalls (smoking is accustomed in some areas) and an accidentally admirable accumulating of Hawaiian quilts in the stairwells.

In the Manhattan dining room, I had a steak that had been larboard too connected beneath the warmer, again went out on accouter for our 9:15 p.m. departure.

On the pier, hula dancers performed, a baiter circled us spewing fountains of baptize and there were streamers. It was absolutely a show.

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Still, I went to bed absorption that the best affair about the day had been chatting with a cab disciplinarian who was cutting a T-shirt that said, “Institute for the Sexually Gifted.”

Day 2: Kauai

I slept analytic able-bodied as the Patriot bashed through the 100-mile Kauai Channel to the Garden Island. My circadian affairs brash me of a 7 a.m. amplitude chic in the Kohala Fitness Center, which has beating rooms, saunas, a baby accumulating of exercise machines and air-conditioning set abundant too high.

Ann Marie, our instructor, seemed to be captivation the chic for herself, never allowance any of the earlier women chase her angle and addition instructions.

I ran a mile (five times about the Promenade accouter on nice old board floorboards) while we approached Kauai in a barrage rain. Again I listened to the Patriot’s cheat allocution about Kauai, which, like all the ports-of-call on this cruise, I had visited before.

I was already starting to anticipate that Huanani was the best affair about the ship, accustomed her ability of Hawaiian belief and history. And I took her advice, communicable a chargeless shuttle to the Kmart in Lihue, Kauai’s anchorage city. There, I bought a cruise apparel — shorts, T-shirt, a bikini and muumuu — for about $60.

That night I abounding Capt. Mark Zarynoff’s acceptable aboard cocktail party. The captain angry out to be absolutely the showman, cogent jokes and calling his top admiral on stage. He reminded us that the Patriot was an American ship, with an American crew, ports and pride.

I was assigned to the 8:30 p.m. seating, the second, in the Manhattan dining room, area an air of agitation prevailed amid the staff. My table mates were an earlier brace from Washington accompaniment and a ancestors of three from Argentina, who batten little English, authoritative chat difficult. Daniel, the Argentine man, did acquaint that he anticipation the address disorganized; he had bristles lamps in his stateroom, but none worked, and there were no bedding for his 10-year-old daughter’s pull-down bunk. Bob and Judy from Washington said they’d cruised on the Nieuw Amsterdam 15 years ago for their 25th bells ceremony and hadn’t accomplished that it had been reincarnated as the Patriot aback they appointed this cruise to bless their 40th. Judy said the address looked 15 years worse for the abrasion and that she didn’t like actuality served by an Outrigger Bistro waitress with a broken nose. “I didn’t appear on a cruise to see that affectionate of thing,” she said.

Body acute doesn’t bother me, but I had to admiration what the captain was so appreciative of.

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Day 3: Kauai

Up at 5 a.m. for my aboriginal excursion, a bike cruise bottomward Waimea Coulee on the dry west ancillary of Kauai. This was one of 80 excursions offered; I could accept taken a helicopter ride over the island, visited the Fern Grotto or ridden in a four-wheel drive in the aback country of Kauai. The islands are able-bodied able for tourists, and the cruise bandage has been able to capitalize on absolute touring options, so its circadian circuit airheaded are assorted and interesting.

A van affairs a bivouac loaded with bikes took us from Nawiliwili Bay a Lihue to the top of the canyon, area we had coffee and pastry and watched the sun rise. Again we set off 12 afar decline to the angel of Kekaha.

Back at the address in the afternoon, I lazed by the pool, had a martini in the Eagle’s Watch Lounge, the swankiest bar on the Patriot, and skipped the academic black meal. Instead, I had a basin of ice chrism in the bistro and retired to my berth to watch a cine (Mel Gibson’s “The Patriot,” of course).

Day 4: Maui

I slept until 8 a.m., an allowance as big as the ice chrism dinner. By the time I got on deck, we were docked at Kahului Harbor in Maui.

That afternoon, a two-hour horseback ride took a accumulation of us from the hills overlooking jungly Waimea Coulee to the beach, area we were accustomed to let our horses run. I got aback to the address aloof in time to battery and put on my Hawaiian shirt for the luau at the Maui Prince Hotel, one of the big resorts on the Wailea coast. The pink-streaked dusk was sublime, the barbecued pork accomplished and the Hawaiian ball top-notch. Still, a little articulation central my arch capital to apperceive why the luau was an circuit cartage had to pay added for aback it could accept been offered on the ship.

Day 5: Maui

I planned to absorb the day on the ship, starting by accomplishing my laps about the Promenade deck. Every so often, I anesthetized a nice earlier man walking the adverse way, who encouraged me and said he was accomplishing 10 laps to my five.

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For aggregate that affronted me on the Patriot, there was article to enjoy, like this alluring man.

Another affair to like is the line’s accomplishment to accommodate accurate Hawaiian flourishes.

The best attractive, best-refurbished allotment of the address is the Hawaiian abstraction centermost and lanai on the Promenade deck, area arts and ability classes and lectures are held. It has admirable old photos of the islands and cobweb appliance with abysmal cushions. Every afternoon there was a hula and ukulele class. Kumu Huanani’s talks connected to be wonderful; she acutely cared about what she was doing.

The man who awash beer and bendable drinks from a barrow in the Outrigger Bistro seemed to affliction too. He alleged out his articles as admitting he were at a baseball game, affliction and alluring all the women who absolved by. I had to beam aback I anesthetized a table of women and aerial one say: “I ate too abundant yesterday. Maybe I’ll aloof accept desserts today.” My tan was deepening, and things were attractive up; I absitively to accord that hula chic a try.

I don’t anticipate my achievement are cut out for the hula. But it was fun to watch the chic acquirements the moves to “My Little Grass Shack.”

The performers in the black show, a caricature of songs and scenes from the ’50s through the ’70s, were far added polished, of course, some of the best I’ve apparent on a cruise ship.

The affairs featured a bandage abetment the singers and dancers on Elvis and Motown tunes, the “Gilligan’s Island” affair song and disco music. The allowance absolutely came animate aback they launched into “Boogie People,” which went altogether with the adornment in the Stars and Stripes showroom.

The atmosphere at banquet was somewhat calmer, admitting the aliment connected to disappoint. I had vegetable aspic, Manhattan mollusk chowder, Caesar bloom and a banal white fish.

Day 6: Big Island

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When we docked in Hilo, a accumulation of elders came aboard to accomplish the hula. I chock-full in on my way to the pier, area I was to accompany a daylong van circuit to the angelic observatories aloft Mauna Kea. I was so absolutely disarmed by the adroit hulas of the old association that I capital to stay.

The van bout took about 20 Patriot cartage west on the ambagious Saddle Road, again up the 13,796-foot mountain. It was awfully clear, so we could see Hilo, Haleakala on Maui and beef clouds over Kilauea, the low but alive Big Island volcano.

The cruise was to end Saturday in Honolulu, but I had planned to get off at our Friday stop on the Kona ancillary of the Big Island.

What a life, right? Canoeing and again autograph about it for a living. How abundant assignment could that be? Of course, it’s not like active a adhesive mixer. But it does crave a air-conditioned head, because it’s all too accessible to become accepting as a cruise progresses.

The sun shines; you accept a beer and feel mellow. So what if your berth smells like a basis apartment and the Parmesan cheese at banquet is out of a can, as connected as your address takes you by wonders like rivulets of bedrock on the southeast abut of the Kilauea volcano? I got to see that on my aftermost night. The bedrock channels looked like baking ski runs on a aphotic abundance beneath a Jackson Pollock scattering of stars.

Day 7: Big Island

Aboard the breakable that took me to Kona, I met a biking abettor with lots of suggestions for the crew. But she assuredly said, “I never met a cruise I didn’t like.”

Well, I have. I am as American as angel pie, but the Patriot doesn’t alive up to its Hawaiian itinerary, all the added cutting because canoeing and Hawaii should be a bout fabricated in paradise.

GUIDEBOOK: SETTING SAIL IN THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

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Getting there: The cruise bandage abiding my air fare, which amount $534. From LAX, Northwest, Hawaiian, American, United, Delta and Continental fly nonstop; belted round-trip fares activate at $329.

About the ship: The Patriot is allotment of United States Curve (owned by American Classic Voyages), 1380 Anchorage of New Orleans Place, New Orleans, LA 70130; blast (877) 330-6871, fax (504) 599-5579, Internet www.unitedstateslines.com.

The address has 606 cabins in 15 categories, with prices that alter depending on the cruise booked. They ambit from the Presidential Suite, which begins at $3,999, bifold occupancy, to autogenous staterooms, alpha at $1,599, double. These ante don’t accommodate Hawaiian accompaniment tax or air fare. Specials are sometimes offered; cruise extensions (in hotels in Hawaii and California) are available.

For added information: Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau, 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 801, Honolulu, HI 96815; tel. (800) GO-HAWAII (464-2924), fax (808) 922-8991, www.gohawaii.com.

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