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Carbone’s dogie Parmesan is now No. 2. ()

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You’ve approved the rest, now try the best — not pizza, which touts its declared ahead on every box, but craven parmigiana that alone looks like pizza.

What ability be alleged “chicken pizzagiana,” a round, 13-inch-diameter replica of a Ray’s pie at new Quality Italian, is the summer’s delinquent amusing hit — good, apple-pie fun in a division of neo-molecular, quasi-Korean and affected Latin departures.

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Served on a tabletop stand, the beheld pun makes you laugh: “Think of this appearance in affiliation to the appearance of a chicken,” my acquaintance cackled.

But the aftertaste fabricated us smile. Richly herbed, luxuriantly juicy, it’s worlds removed from the insipid, accepted article. The aperitive breadcrumb band is what you appetite absolute pizza chef to be.

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Call it the basin that ate the bend of Sixth Avenue and 57th Street, area the two-level restaurant opened a anniversary ago.

It could additionally be the basin that ate Quality Italian. At $52 for two — although big abundant for four who booty human-size bites — it’s so accepted that bisected the 100-seat admiral dining allowance seems to adjustment it; controlling chef Scott Tacinelli says they usually run out by 10 p.m.

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Some diners are too enthusiastic. Saturday night, two blessed adolescent women agape the accomplished shebang — craven slices, angle and condiments — assimilate the floor.

This ability not be what buyer Michael Stillman’s Fourth Wall Restaurants had in mind. Quality Italian, afterwards all, is a steakhouse, with prime “butcher’s cuts” priced at $46 and $48.

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For my money, the craven pizzagiana assault abroad the $50, inch-thick dogie Parmesan (as they alarm it) at Carbone — until now, the year’s best talked-about riff on archetypal Italian-American cooking.

But while Carbone’s hit looks like dogie Parmesan, Quality Italian’s not-pizza would fool anyone. It grew out of abstracts to hip up the cliché. “One abstraction was a boned-out craven blimp with pasta,” Tacinelli recalls. Fortunately, wiser active prevailed.

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The basal basic is simple: Breast meat is arena with house-dried spices, advance out on a annular pan and caked in fresh, spiced breadcrumbs. It’s fried, topped with fresh-made San Marzano amazon booze and Pecorino, Parmesan and mozzarella cheeses and basil afore a about-face in the oven.

The aftereffect tastes, and registers on the tongue, like added than craven — analogously clammy throughout its half-inch depth, and bedevilled of an herbal appearance as ability appear off a North African grill.

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In fact, Tacinelli says he had a shwarma-like “meatball” partly in mind, although the herbs are all Italian, including oregano and bay leaf. Addition secret: “We use a little aphotic meat to accumulate it moist.”

It’s served with Ray’s-style jars of sprinkle-on atramentous olives, garlic powder, peperoncino — and a basin of honey from Union Square Greenmarket’s Andrew’s Honey. Sourced from Central Park hives, it’s cut with broiled Calabrian chili.

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I can do after honey on craven that looks like pizza. Of course, pizza that looks like craven ability be addition story. I achievement it doesn’t accord Tacinelli ideas.

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